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% Reading |
Amps |
Grams / Hour |
Liquid Chlorine Equivalent / 10 Hrs (12.5% Available Chlorine) |
25% |
7.5 A |
~ 7.5 gr/hr |
600 Milliliters / 0.16 Gallons |
50% |
15 A |
~ 15 gr/hr |
1.2 Litres / 0.32 Gallons |
75% |
22.5 A |
~ 22.5 gr/hr |
1.8 Litres / 0.48 Gallons |
100% |
30 A |
~ 30 gr/hr |
2.4 Litres / 0.63 Gallons |
There are FIVE influencing factors that determine the % level or chlorine output that is produced by the cell.
THE CONTROL PANEL SETTING -- This is the level that is set by the user by depressing the - or + buttons. The actual reading that is obtained will also be influenced by the four other factors listed below.
SALT LEVEL -- The salt level in the water, determines how conductive the water is and how much current (Amps) the cell is able to draw from the Power Pack, proportional to the LED readout on the front panel of the WATERMAID Power Pack.
A recommended Salt Level of 6000 PPM (parts per million) will result in a EZ300 Cell or QT300 Cell drawing approximately 30 Amps or 100% reading on the indicator LED's.
A salt level below this range will result in the LED readout to drop to below 100% and therefore less chlorine being produced.
If the salt level drops to a very low level, ALL the Green LED indicators on the readout will not illuminate until eventually only the first three AMBER lights will illuminate. (indicating to check the salt level) The illumination of AMBER lights also indicates that low levels of chlorine are being produced and that salt may need to added to increase the salt level in the pool so that the WATERMAID Chlorinator can produce more chlorine, enough so that the pool remains clean, clear, sparkling and sterile.
PLEASE NOTE:
The WATERMAID QT400 Cell only requires a salt level of 4000 PPM to achieve a reading of 100% on the front control panel. This is ideal for pools owners that wish to run with a lower salt level. An even lower level may only be needed for pools that are heated.
The figures given in the table above, assume a water temperature in the pool of 20 Deg C / 68 Deg F.
WATER TEMPERATURE -- Water temperature is also a determining factor in the amount of chlorine production that the cell produces, again proportional to the LED readout on the front panel of the WATERMAID Power Pack.
WARMER WATER TEMPERATURES result in the water being more conductive and the cell producing more chlorine.
COOLER WATER TEMPERATURES result in the water being less conductive and the cell producing less chlorine.
PLEASE NOTE:
Swimming Pool & Spa Owners that use HEATERS to warm the water can maintain a lower salt level in the swimming pool and still achieve a 100% reading on the LED Control panel.
CALCIFICATION ON THE CELL -- The buildup of calcium deposits on the center cell electrode can also determine the chlorine production from the cell.
THICK heavy buildup can result in less chlorine being produced.
VERY HARD, THIN calcium deposits can also reduce the chlorine production from the cell.
PLEASE NOTE:
Usually a small build up of clacium will not result in a loss of chlorine production from the unit.
Is is advised to inspect the cell every 2 - 4 weeks and check the build up on the cell.
If necessary, clean the cell as per the instructions.
In some cases, a thick calcium buildup may cause the reading on the LED % readout to read normally however result in low levels of chlorine being produced by the cell. It is important that an inspection of the cell is done on a regular basis.
AGE OF THE CELL -- Normally a WATERMAID cell will have a minimum life of 5 or more Years. Cells beyond this age may deteriorate and result in less chlorine being produced from the cell. This is also indicated by the LED readout to drop to below 100% and therefore less chlorine being produced.
When salt levels are maintained at the correct range and the LED readout is low, the cell is clean however the cell is beyond 5 years of age, A NEW cell may be needed to produce sufficient amounts of chlorine for the pool again.
The RED LED indicator light has TWO states of operation.
If the RED LED Indicator is Flashing it will indicate that there is a flow fault or problem with the cell.
The Cell should be inspected to see if there is water flowing freely over the electrodes and there is no gas (air or hydrogen) inside the cell.
The cell should also be inspected to see if there are any calcium deposits on the Gas Sensing Tang of the cell. No Green Light - No Green Light - No Chlorine production
The cell connections. where the WATERMAID Cell is connected to the Power Pack should also be inspected to ensure they are tight and free of electrical corrosion or damage. Connecting and Disconnecting the WATERMAID Cell
If the RED LED Indicator is STEADY RED (not flashing) it will indicate that the power pack is in an overload state and that it has shut itself down to protect itself from any damage.
The MOST LIKELY cause will be that the SALT LEVEL in the pool is in excess of what the unit requires to operate efficiently. It may also be that SALT has recently been added to the pool and undissloved salt is passing over the electrodes. When adding salt to the pool, always ensure the WATERMAID unit has been shut off or the chlorine production turned down to the lowest setting. (by using the - button)
The solution for a Power Pack that is in an overload state is to dilute the water in the pool by emptying the pool approximately 15cm / 6 Inches at a time and refilling with a fresh water source. This may need to be repeated several times until the unit is operating correctly again and all lights are indicating between the 75%- 100% range.
It may also be a good opportunity, if you have a sand filter to give the filter a thorough backwash whilst solving this temporary problem.
The BLUE, AUTO CELL CLEAN indicator lamp will illuminate when the Power Pack is cleaning the cell. The normal self clean cycle comes on for 10 minutes every hour. This setting can be adjusted if needed.
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© Watermaid 2009